How to Choose a Tennis Racket

A tennis shop wall can look like a row of nearly identical rackets with very different price tags. The differences that matter are hidden in a few numbers printed on the frame. Once you know what those numbers mean, choosing becomes a matter of matching them to how you play, and to how often.

Start with honest questions

• How often do you play: occasionally, weekly or several times a week?
• Do you take long, full swings, or shorter, more compact ones?
• Have you had any arm, elbow or shoulder discomfort?
• Do you want easy power, or more control over where the ball goes?

Write your answers down. They will steer every choice below.

Head size

Head size is the area of the string bed, usually printed in square inches.

• Larger heads offer a bigger sweet spot and more forgiveness on off-center hits. They suit beginners and players who want easier power.
• Smaller heads give more precision and feedback but demand cleaner contact. They suit experienced players with full, consistent swings.
• Mid-sized heads sit in between and are a sensible starting point for many adult players.

Weight

Weight is usually listed unstrung, and sometimes strung as well. A lighter racket is easier to swing and maneuver, which helps beginners and shorter sessions. A heavier racket is more stable when hitting hard balls and absorbs more shock, but it tires the arm faster if you are not used to it. Many adult recreational players end up somewhere in the middle of the range.

Balance

Balance describes where the weight sits along the racket:

Light rackets are often made head-heavy so they still have some punch, and heavier rackets head-light so they stay quick to handle. The two numbers work together.

Grip size

Grip size is easy to overlook and one of the most important comfort factors. A grip that is too small makes you squeeze harder; one that is too large makes the racket feel clumsy. A common way to check: hold the racket with your usual grip and see whether you can fit the index finger of your other hand in the gap between your fingertips and palm. If there is no room, the grip is small; if there is much more room, it is large.

If you are between sizes, choose the smaller one. You can build a grip up with an overgrip, but you cannot make it thinner.

Strings and string pattern

An open string pattern (fewer strings) tends to give more spin and a livelier feel. A dense pattern (more strings) gives more control and usually lasts longer. Softer strings, such as multifilament, are often more comfortable for the arm than stiff ones. Tension also matters: lower tension generally adds power and comfort, higher tension adds control. A local stringer can suggest a starting point.

Comfort and your arm

If you have had elbow or shoulder trouble, lean towards a slightly heavier, more flexible frame with softer strings, and avoid a very stiff, very light racket. For any ongoing pain, speak to a doctor or physical therapist before changing equipment to fix it; a racket is not a treatment.

Test before you buy

1. Ask whether a club or shop offers demo rackets.
2. Try two or three rackets with different specifications, not just different brands.
3. Play your normal shots, including serves and volleys, for at least half an hour each.
4. Note how your arm feels the next morning.
5. Pick the one you forgot about while playing. That is usually the right one.

Many first-time buyers make the same handful of mistakes, from choosing on looks to skipping the demo. Our list of common mistakes beginners make when choosing a racket is worth a read before you head to the shop.

A short buying checklist

• Head size that matches your experience
• Weight you can swing comfortably for a full session
• Balance that complements the weight
• Correct grip size, or a size smaller plus an overgrip
• Strings and tension suited to your arm and your game
• At least one demo session before buying

The right racket does not make you a better player overnight. It simply stops getting in the way, which is the most a piece of equipment can do.